Transmission Mount Removal Question

[the_professional]

I hate to be redundant but I have a "different" question.

Although my undercarriage is relatively rust free, the exhaust connections are rusted together, & I really don't want to pull (cut) the pipes apart because the connection wont be as good upon reinstallation. I was wondering if I could unbolt the exhaust at the manifold or possibly at the top of the Y pipe and then remove the whole exhaust from the hangers.

I've done this on Toyota four bangers, but I don't know if it's feasible on the Legend.
Thank You.

[Team LR]

your best bet is to remove the 2 bolts from were the y n cat meet and then remove the cat from the hangers, thatll clear enough space to work and those two bold from the Y can be are easily replaced if needed

[the_professional]

I know that is the common method of removal to access the mount, but I do not want to try & get it apart there, the bolts are heavily rusted. That's why I would much rather not cut anything & just drop it from the manifold.

Thanks for the response.

[Chrispy]

If that is your concern, just order a new donut gasket set, it should come with new bolts and springs, problem solved

[antik]

Originally Posted by Chrispy

If that is your concern, just order a new donut gasket set, it should come with new bolts and springs, problem solved

This.

Unbolting the top side of the Y-pipe is a bear if my memory serves me: folks whine about it quite a bit when they actually give it a shot.

The right answer is to buy new assembly hardware and bring your will to snap/cut/drill/grind/torch some shit when you roll under the car.

[sr5guy]

DON'T remove it from the manifolds, you will regret it. Plus, there is no way they you'll get the pipe down far enough to get the mount out. I have a special method to remove the rusted out nuts with 2 pairs of sharp channel lock pliers. You have to remove the nut off the back end with the pliers - if you try to remove the bolt it'll just snap. Basically, you grab the nut with the channel locks, then you grab the handle of the channel locks with another pair of channel locks to get a super bite on the nut, then turn.

-Matt

[DrDave]

You are only working on two easily accessible bolts. Spray them with PB blaster and wait a bit. If that does not free them up get out the fire wrench (torch). Heat the bolts up and remove them. It would be nice to have two new bolts to put back in.

Dave

[Legend95]

i'm changing gearbox, as you can see bolts are on their place, not broken.

i put on the bolts used engine oil and warm up engine to make exhaust hot, again put oil and loosen it.

i can prove it

[the_professional]

Originally Posted by Chrispy

If that is your concern, just order a new donut gasket set, it should come with new bolts and springs, problem solved

If I can ever get the pipes apart, like they are legitimately fused to one.
Thanks for the heads-up Chrisp, if I get them apart, I will definitely look into it!

Originally Posted by antik

This.

Unbolting the top side of the Y-pipe is a bear if my memory serves me: folks whine about it quite a bit when they actually give it a shot.

The right answer is to buy new assembly hardware and bring your will to snap/cut/drill/grind/torch some shit when you roll under the car.

I really don't mind it being a pain in the ass as long as I get this damn thing off, I am tired of my rough shifts. Damn mount/stopper...

I wish I had access to this stuff, but the truth is I am a drive way mechanic, no garage.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by sr5guy

DON'T remove it from the manifolds, you will regret it. Plus, there is no way they you'll get the pipe down far enough to get the mount out. I have a special method to remove the rusted out nuts with 2 pairs of sharp channel lock pliers. You have to remove the nut off the back end with the pliers - if you try to remove the bolt it'll just snap. Basically, you grab the nut with the channel locks, then you grab the handle of the channel locks with another pair of channel locks to get a super bite on the nut, then turn.

-Matt

Thanks Matt, your always a beacon of good advice. Just, the problem I am running into is that the nut/bolt combination do not exist, somewhat. The spring is fine, and the exhaust is together, but the bolt/nut combination is deteriorated to the point that it does not exist as it is rusted into the pipe connection itself. Maybe I am over-exaggerating. It may be best if I just bring the rig up to you because, I have the patience for a head gasket job but not rusted shit.

Thanks Matt.

Originally Posted by DrDave

You are only working on two easily accessible bolts. Spray them with PB blaster and wait a bit. If that does not free them up get out the fire wrench (torch). Heat the bolts up and remove them. It would be nice to have two new bolts to put back in.

Dave

Thanks Dave, I just can't find the bolts, their remnants are there. The bolt head and nut do not exist, its just a rusted "mound".

Originally Posted by Legend95

i'm changing gearbox, as you can see bolts are on their place, not broken.

i put on the bolts used engine oil and warm up engine to make exhaust hot, again put oil and loosen it.

i can prove it

Very Nice!

But, again, I just don't think it's feasible because the bolts do not exist, they are literally rusted mounds if memory serves me right.

Thanks Again Fellas, I appreciate it!

[alittlethin]

Cut-off wheel and two of these and you're done. Rusty bolts are a waste of time and knuckles.

Bolts and springs