RockAuto VS OEM

[Beyond~Measure]

What suspension parts could i get from RA and what should i just do OEM on?

I mean I'm gonna do Monroe on suspension until i can get my hands on some Koni's later on....

but with the selection of brands for ball joints drive axles etc which are best and which parts am I better suited with OEM?

For example on the Drive axle... Cardone or EMPI Which brand does OEM anyhow? I also remember someone mentioning it was overall better to go OEM on drive axles a while back.... someone saying non OEM shat the bed within low mileage use? :dunno:

I wanna rebuild my Coupes limbs and am unsure which direction/brand to go... whilst getting quality and saving $ if possible

[Chrispy]

Any of Rock Auto's ball joints and tie rods are decent as long as you stick with the professional grade stuff and dont go with the "economy" brands.

As far as axles, contact Acura of Augusta or Delray Acura and purchase the OEM reman axles. I had a ton of problems with aftermarket axles failing prematurely. Been running an OEM reman set since December and have about 1500 miles on them now, Im very pleased with how they ride and have stood up to this harsh winter.

[Beyond~Measure]

Originally Posted by Chrispy

Any of Rock Auto's ball joints and tie rods are decent as long as you stick with the professional grade stuff and dont go with the "economy" brands.

As far as axles, contact Acura of Augusta or Delray Acura and purchase the OEM reman axles. I had a ton of problems with aftermarket axles failing prematurely. Been running an OEM reman set since December and have about 1500 miles on them now, Im very pleased with how they ride and have stood up to this harsh winter.

Interesting.

[Beyond~Measure]

OEM "remanufactured"? So theyre not exactly new?

[Chrispy]

http://forums.acuralegend.org/irrita...8.html?t=30738

No, and you dont need brand new. The important parts are replaced with new parts (bearings, boots, splined ends, c-clips, inboard, and outboard joints) and they fit correctly without vibrations or shimmy like what is associated with aftermarket reman or "new" axles.

[Beyond~Measure]

reading that thread I'm a little confused.... Although that was the thread i was referring to.

I mean how does one tell if an Axle is "going"? how does one distinguish between needing an alignment or axle or ball joint? What exactly is an axle going bad at 5-8k? that sounds insane.....

[Chrispy]

You check the ball joints with the front tires barely raised off the ground, enough to fit a long pry bar under the tire, pry up gently, if you feel movement, you have a bad ball joint, you can look to see if its the upper or lower. You can test the upper by putting a pry bar on the spring, and firm against the upper control arm and check for movement. With the front wheels off the ground and you hands at the 3 and 9 oclock positions, try and move the wheel side to side, if there is movement you have a bad tie rod, tug hard on the inner or outer to see which is loose or moving. For the axles, put the front wheels in the air, with the car in neutral and the ebrake set or rear wheels chucked, move turn the wheel forward and then abruptly back, if you hear a click or pop, the axle is bad. If you hear clicking while turning, the axle is bad, or if you see a torn boot with axle grease all over the place, you should replace the axle.

The problem with the aftermarket axles is a 3 part issue. Some do not use the correct center shaft, most use low grade and low quality parts for the inboard and outboard joint and in some cases they have vibrations right out of the box! Lastly, Ive noticed more and more aftermarket axles with the incorrect c-clip that snaps into place when the axle is engaged to the diff or intermediate shaft or are the incorrect width right out of the box. 99% of aftermarket axles are assembled in the US with parts from China, nuff said.

[Beyond~Measure]

Thanks.

[Chrispy]

Almost forgot the hub bearing test. Sometimes if you feel movement at the 3-9 position its nto always a bad tie rod, retest doing the same thing, this time hands at the 12-6 positions, this will reveal a loose hub bearing. Sometimes it helps to have someone do you shake down test and another person with a light watch the areas you are testing for movement.

[Beyond~Measure]

Love this paragraph....

I have found numerous aftermarket parts that are just as good if not better than OEM for less cost. That said tho, axles, are definitely NOT one of them. There are certain parts where I will only use OEM parts, of them, t-stats, motor mounts (when Im not busy filling them with polyurethane to make them stiff as fawk), timing belts, water pumps, valve cover gaskets (been burned by felpro twice with them), coolant, and thats about all I can really think of. My wheel bearings are Timkens which are high grade, tie rods are moog, ball joints also moog (like that they come with grease fittings and the OEM does not), upper control arms are dorman, rear control arms are all OEM, but I got a killer deal on them. I stopped using OEM oil filters after they discontinued the Toyoroki filters, I now use Napa gold aka Wix brand, I use a full synthetic oil and a synthetic diff oil, and my trans fluid has been changed to Castrol since the OEM switched to the new DW1 blend. Eventually, the OEM parts will be discontinued and stocks will run out, so finding a capable aftermarket replacement is crucial to me since I plan to keep at least 1 Legend in my stable for as long as I can.

By the way.... Chrispy are you the guy with the black coupe pics taken on the sand at a beach looong ago?